Berkeley’s Chez Panisse Cafe -- the casual spot above the more famous restaurant -- is one of my favorite places in the world to eat. What I love about it is not its inventiveness, but rather the ...

It’s a big cushion of a dessert, bouncy and buoyant, like a lighter, low-profile cheesecake or the center of a very good éclair. When it comes out of the oven, it’s still jiggly in the center, which ...